The Best Dishes Eater Editors Ate This Week, April 2019
Because tasting the best of LA is in the ultimate work perk
The editors of Eater LA dine out several times a week, if not per day, which means we’re always encountering standout dishes that deserve their time in the limelight. Here now, the very best of everything the team has eaten recently.
April 22, 2019 Spam fried rice at OMMA Rice N Chicken in Pasadena @GastronomyBlog Spam fried rice at OMMA Rice N Chicken The Slaw Dogs space on North Lake is now home to OMMA Rice and Chicken, a full-service cafe serving fruit smoothies and all manner of Korean favorites like kimbap , fried chicken, kimchi pancakes, and bibimbap . The food, prepared with care by the smiliest of cooks, delights with its simplicity. The Spam fried rice — glossy grains, scrambled eggs, and chopped vegetables, along with a fried egg and size-able slab of Spam — serves up pure comfort in a bowl. When the week’s been long and another marathon is on the horizon, there is no better fuel. 720 N. Lake Ave., Ste. 8, Pasadena. —Cathy Chaplin
Sichuan-style Dungeness crab at Sea Harbour in Rosemead Matthew Kang Sichuan-style Dungeness crab at Sea Harbour It’s easy to forget the wealth of excellent Cantonese seafood restaurants in Los Angeles, and the nearly two decade-old Sea Harbour continues to chug along with fresh crab pulled right out of the water. Dungeness crab isn’t quite at its peak this early in the season, but one could argue that the Sichuan-style seasoning, with a gentle simmering heat and red-tinted chili oil, does a nice job of making up for the skimpy but sweet crab meat. The only problem with ordering one of these is fighting over the best pieces, which in this case has to be the claws. 3939 N. Rosemead Blvd., Rosemead. — Matthew Kang
Carne asada at Sonoratown in Downtown Farley Elliott Carne asada at Sonoratown Having out-of-town co-workers descend on Los Angeles can always be reason to stress, particularly when they’re fellow food writers who expect to eat well — and often. One of the best eaters of the entire company is none other than editor-in-chief Amanda Kludt, who popped into the city for a few days to dine everywhere from Nightshade and Alameda Supper Club to Fiona on Fairfax. She already more than knows what she’s doing and where to go, so it was a relief to bring up Sonoratown as a quick second lunch option one day and have her heartily say yes. What followed was a walk-through of one of the city’s best newer taquerias , from the classic carne asada on flour tortillas to the endlessly delicious chivichanga with pulled chicken. A nibble of onion here, a splash of salsa there, some horchata and maybe a few tortillas to take home…it’s the kind of easy meal that can take the pressure off anyone, and lets out-of-towners lean into the kind of flavors and vibe that LA does so effortlessly. 208 E. 8th St., Downtown. — Farley Elliott
Blue crab handroll at KazuNori pop-up at Coachella View this post on Instagram A post shared by KazuNori (@kazunorisushi) on Apr 3, 2019 at 12:34pm PDT
As far as Coachella dining goes, it is incredibly difficult to recreate dishes in a tent in the desert with 100 degree temperatures. Unless of course the establishment is KazuNori. Its unassuming, expertly made handrolls are a great fit for those looking to increase their salt intake in the low desert. The pop-up experience was no different than at any of its LA locations. A brief wait for a seat, and only $25 for a five-roll combo with toro, yellowtail, bay scallops, lobster, and the clear standout: blue crab. Made right before my eyes, the blue crab creation offered a welcome break from just about every other average food vendor at the annual music festival. 421 S. Main Street, Los Angeles. —Mona Holmes
April 15, 2019 Kohada at Sushi Ginza Onodera in West Hollywood Farley Elliott Kohada at Sushi Ginza Onodera Los Angeles has no shortage of sushi, from high-end experiences tucked into strip malls to every corner spots doing omakase on the cheap. Towards the ceiling of that range is Sushi Ginza Onodera, the worldwide upscale phenomenon known for its clean lines, big price tag, and collection of Michelin stars. The LA location sits on La Cienega just a door down from E.P. & L.P., though it feels a world away from that (or any other nearby) scene. Step through for a serene evening where impressive fishes provide the show, particularly some lightly seared monkfish liver or wildly fresh kohada . 609 La Cienega Blvd, West Hollywood. —Farley Elliott
Rosemary garlic roast pork at Parsnip in Highland Park @GastronomyBlog Rosemary garlic roast pork at Parsnip The end of braised meat season is around the corner, soon to be replaced by lighter fare, warmer temps, and blooming jacarandas. This happens every year, of course, but that doesn’t mean that a sweet send-off isn’t warranted. For one final hurrah, head to Parsnip and settle into a generously portioned bowl of slow-roasted pork shoulder plopped atop creamy polenta with an apple onion sauce. A double punch of pork and polenta can be too rich, but there’s nothing a bit of vinegary red cabbage and pico verde can’t solve. Now that the last of the season has been fully savored with Romanian comforts of the fall-apart roast variety, let’s bring on spring. 5623 York Blvd, Los Angeles. —Cathy Chaplin
Sausage egg and cheese sandwich at Eggslut in Glendale Mona Holmes Sausage egg and cheese sandwich at Eggslut Eggslut’s reputation as a formidable daytime eatery is based on a model that churns out breakfast sandwiches, coddled eggs, and burgers. Angelenos love it so much that they’re willing to wait up to an hour without complaint. It’s hard to imagine LA without Eggslut, even though it’s only been around since 2013. Founder Alvin Cailan keeps opening new locations, bringing the count up to five including outlets in Grand Central Market, Glendale, Venice, and The Beverly Center. He’s even moving beyond California with a spot at The Cosmopolitan in Las Vegas and another in London that’s opening this year. Whichever location one finds themselves, the sandwich to get is the sausage, egg, and cheese — pure melty goodness in a brioche bun with house-made turkey sausage, an over-medium egg, cheese, and a slightly sweet aioli. Unless arriving early, skip the Grand Central Market line and head to Glendale where the wait isn’t as insane. 252 South Brand Blvd., Glendale. —Mona Holmes
Seasonal risotto at Rossoblu in Downtown Matthew Kang Gorgonzola, radicchio, and labrusco risotto at Rossoblu April doesn’t seem like the best time to have risotto, but these rather blustery spring evenings means a wide bowl of comforting Italian rice porridge totally fits the bill. Rossoblu’s seasonal offering, part of a big set menu we had recently for a bachelor party, served fantastic flavor in just a few spoonfuls. Creamy, still al dente rice comes lovingly stirred with a gently sweet lambrusco wine, gorgonzola, and just-bitter radicchio for a balanced bowl. The gorgonzola’s punchy flavor gets a nice tempering from the wine and leaves. Then the rich Parmigiano-Reggiano brings it all together for a textbook example of what a great risotto can be in, even in perpetually sunny California. Order this before it comes off the menu. 1124 San Julian St, Los Angeles. —Matthew Kang
April 8, 2019 Green Tea Mille Crêpes at Lady M in Arcadia @GastronomyBlog Green Tea Mille Crêpes at Lady M A trip to the Santa Anita mall isn’t complete without a slice of Lady M’s super-fine green tea crepe cake. Slicing through 20 delicate crepes interspersed with matcha-infused pastry cream has a magical quality to it, quieting the din of shoppers, if only for a moment. It’s a tradition with my four-year-old, who might be even more enchanted by the cake than me. There’s something about forging memories within the confines of an indoor mall that makes me more than a little nostalgic for the days of dining at the Cheesecake Factory with my mom. Malls, mothers, memories…it must be a Southern California thing. 400 S Baldwin Ave E21, Arcadia. —Cathy Chaplin
3×3 at In-N-Out Burger Farley Elliott 3×3 at In-N-Out Burger Is there anything better on a road trip than a simple In-N-Out burger? Or maybe not so simple, depending on one’s preference for layers of meat and cheese, or grilled onions, or chopped chiles, or mustard-grilling or… The point has been made before, but it bears repeating: In-N-Out is America’s best driving burger. From the enduring roadside stand aesthetic to the inexpensive menu, fast service, and simple satisfaction with every bite, a burger here just matters more to the national burger conversation when it’s eaten in the sunshine just off some interstate. Don’t feel like debating the merits of the fries? Skip them altogether with a beefed-up 3×3 (add raw onion), and split a milkshake with whoever is riding shotgun. That’s what Southern California is all about. —Farley Elliott
Turnip with Spanish mackerel at Auburn Matthew Kang Turnip with Spanish mackerel at Auburn Auburn is turning out to be one of LA’s most promising new restaurants under the helm of fine dining veteran Eric Bost. The space is absolutely gorgeous, with a wonderful clean design and just the right accents. It’s a place that feels at once welcoming and different, stark in its minimalism but also cheerful enough from the pops of greenery and its open ceiling. You almost wish you could live in it. And living here would be even better if this was the kind of the food you could eat on a daily basis.
Bost serves this roast turnip dish that hides raw Spanish mackerel beneath, all of which settles into a shallow pool of aged pork broth. A fragrant allium oil dots the broth, and together the dish reminds me of something at San Francisco’s three Michelin-starred Saison: robust, brothy, and tempered by a subtlety that’s hard to describe. There’s a contrast of the fresh, meaty fish and the heft of those turnips that harkens a Japanese mentality. The turnip is emblematic of the rest of Bost’s food: focused and precise but ultimately pleasurable and delicious. Now the question is, will Auburn garner one or two Michelin stars of its own? 6703 Melrose Avenue, Los Angeles, CA. — Matthew Kang
April 1, 2019 Snickerdoodle pancakes at Kitchen Mouse in Highland Park @GastronomyBlog Snickerdoodle Pancakes at Kitchen Mouse It doesn’t get any more basic than venturing out for a plant-based brunch in Highland Park, but alas, here we are. With vegan-ish in-laws in town and bellies to be filled, Kitchen Mouse proved to be the perfect call this Sunday afternoon. While my mother-in-law dug into awesomely meaty jackfruit “crab” cakes and my father-in-law settled into a full English breakfast, my fork kept returning to my husband’s Snickerdoodle pancakes. Made from a trio of flours—oat, buckwheat, and corn—these pancakes proved heftier and denser than the average short stack in the very best way. The finishing touches, a dusting of cinnamon-coconut sugar and a dollop of cinnamon-coconut sugar butter, made for the kind of rich and decadent brunch-time sweet that forks are futile to resist. 5904 N Figueroa St., Los Angeles. —Cathy Chaplin
Tacos de canasta from a street corner in Downtown Farley Elliott Tacos de canasta from a street corner in Downtown Los Angeles’s taco scene at the moment is focused on two very big ideas: Bright red birria , and lots of carne asada by way of Tijuana. And while each genre offers countless spin-offs across the city, in Downtown there’s one man doing something much simpler: t acos de canasta . The so-called basket tacos are also known more generally as tacos al vapor because they cook by being steamed slowly. In the de canasta case they’re cooked in transit after sitting, folded lightly, in a layer of cloth that’s covered with plastic wrap to keep the moisture in. The result is a plate of five smallish tacos meant to be slathered over with some pickled veg and salsa, and eaten with a fork (unless one is willing to get extra messy, which is always okay). And while al vapor tacos are not ubiquitous to Los Angeles right now, they can be seen fairly frequently for those in the know. Want some soon? Head down towards 4th and Los Angeles streets in Downtown, and look for the occasional man pushing a baby stroller topped with a basket full of tacos. It’s just that simple in LA. 4th and Los Angeles streets in Downtown. —Farley Elliott
Breakfast burrito at El Torazo in Long Beach Mona Holmes Breakfast burrito at El Torazo Figuring out where to eat in LA can be a tricky affair. The entire county has over 10 million people, and with thousands of restaurants to choose from, it can get overwhelming. But sometimes luck takes over and an unexpected experience brings a gem into the fold. The breakfast burrito at El Torazo, which happens to be located next door to a friend’s Long Beach home, brings an interesting twist with its chopped ingredients—crispy potatoes, bacon, and egg—wrapped in a seared handmade tortilla. It’s in a sleepy part of Long Beach where parking is scarce, but worthy of the inconvenience for any breakfast burrito lover. 2801 E. 10th St., Long Beach. —Mona Holmes
Veal wienerschnitzel at Spago in Beverly Hills Matthew Kang Veal wienerschnitzel at Spago Wolfgang Puck’s iconic Beverly Hills restaurant continues to prepare elegant lunches in the Golden Triangle, though it seems the crowd hasn’t changed much since the early aughts. Expect the odd sunglass-donning and Panama hat-wearing tourist couple, as well as a dining room full of ladies who lunch. There are still plenty of tables where Hollywood-types are making deals, but Spago still somehow feels inaccessible to the influencer set, which is fine by me. And while it’s probably due time to infuse a little freshness on the menu in the way of some more photo-friendly food, no one can deny themselves Spago’s classic veal wienerschnitzel. In a Keto and low-carb world, this gorgeous fried beauty looks completely out of place, but the fundamentals are here. Crisp breadcrumb coating, tender pounded veal, and everything you’d want on the side of this Austrian favorite. There’s still a sense that Spago hasn’t done anything new or innovative in the past few years, but maybe dishes like this wienerschnitzel are reason enough to return. 176 N. Canon Dr, Beverly Hills. —Matthew Kang
March 25, 2019 Lonestar Migas at Homestate in Hollywood Farley Elliott Lonestar Migas at HomeState Some mornings are easier than others, sure, but it’s hard to see any day going askew when starting with a hearty bowl of lonestar migas from HomeState. The restaurant group already has busy locations in Hollywood and Highland Park and is soon to add in Playa Vista to the mix, meaning a morning with scrambled eggs, cheese, strips of tortilla, and shredded brisket is close at hand. It’s always a smart idea to add a couple of flour tortillas to the mix (and some avocado on top), but either way these migas are an awesome way to at least start having a good day. Whatever happens after is anyone’s guess. 4624 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood. —Farley Elliott
Apennine fries at Rossoblu in Downtown @GastronomyBlog Apennine fries at Rossoblu There’s something about an early evening hang that feels just right these days now that the sun lingers until just before dinnertime. The good folks at Rossoblu serve up a small menu from 5 p.m. to 7 p.m. daily featuring choice cocktails and wines-by-the-glass, as well as salty-crunchy bites to pair with them. It’s a highly civilized affair that soaks up the season in the best way. While it’s easy to overlook the Apennine fries when there are grilled pork meatballs to be had, the expert move here is to order one of each. Sip a glass of sparkling rosé while digging into the ultimate fried spuds made from Kennebec potatoes, drizzled in balsamic vinegar, and speckled with deep-fried herbs. The texture will knock your socks off. 1124 San Julian St, Los Angeles. —Cathy Chaplin
Charred cauliflower at Tesse in West Hollywood Mona Holmes Charred cauliflower at Tesse Let’s be real, cauliflower isn’t the greatest vegetable. The crunchy texture is the only thing really going for it, and even though it seems like many LA restaurants feature this vegetable on their menu, it largely falls short. The lone exception is the charred cauliflower at Tesse. I’ll admit that my dining partner insisted on this dish, otherwise I would have missed the flavorful accompanying harissa, cucumber, and pomegranate which combines perfectly with the wood-fired cauliflower. It’s fresh, filling, and gorgeous to look at. 8500 Sunset Blvd. Ste. B, West Hollywood. —Mona Holmes
Don’t Think, Just Eat at Sugarfish Marina del Rey Matthew Kang Sushi at Sugarfish Marina del Rey Sugarfish is essentially a known quantity in Los Angeles these days, with fantastic quality fish and heavily seasoned rice that’s beloved across town. The newest addition to the menu called “Don’t Think, Just Eat,” is a solid shift away from its standard “Trust Me” or “Nozawa” menus with a lot more variation and interesting cuts for a very reasonable price. Here, the menu is $52 for two sashimi plates, 16 pieces of nigiri with all different preparations, and a lobster hand roll to finish. Although it’s the most expensive option on the Sugarfish menu, it’s also the best deal especially when you compare this to what a similar option would cost at a restaurant like Sasabune or Sushi Park. After tax and a fixed 16% service charge, it’s a hair under $70 per person at Sugarfish.
The sushi here doesn’t necessarily rank in the same playing field, and the results are a little obvious in the construction. Fish barely sits atop the warm rice, a signature Nozawa feature, instead of fitting in nicely. It’s mostly so the warm rice doesn’t overcook the fish, but eating the sushi, even with fingers, is an exercise in keeping the nigiri together. Also, the non-aged nature of the cuts means the flavor won’t quite stay long on the palate like what one might experience at Kura in West Hollywood or Q in Downtown. But considering the ubiquity of this omakase course, its fantastic price point, and nine-out-of-ten quality of fish, it’s hard to complain. For anyone wanting the proper step up in quality for sushi, this is the ideal place to start. 4722 Admiralty Way, Marina Del Rey. —Matthew Kang
March 18, 2019 Key lime pie from the Grill on the Alley in Beverly Hills Wonho Frank Lee The key lime pie from the Grill on the Alley Beverly Hills is a lot of things to a lot of people. It’s a bastion of wealth in sprawling Los Angeles; a destination for camera-toting tourists looking to gawk at handbags; and a home for classic restaurants that still find themselves with something to offer. That’s certainly the case with the Grill on the Alley, the 35-year-old mainstay for the rich, powerful, and often famous. One unsung hero of the place, though, may well be the key lime pie for dessert. It’s tart, tangy, and decadent without being too powerful, making it an ideal finisher for a warm pre-summer meal just steps from Rodeo Drive. 9560 Dayton Way, Beverly Hills. —Farley Elliott
Anchovies and butter at Otoño in Highland Park Wonho Frank Lee Boquerones y Mantequilla at Otoño The most exciting dishes are the ones that don’t play by the rules, delighting with palate-pleasing combinations that defy expectations. Chef Teresa Montaño’s boquerones y mantequilla brings together fruits of the land and sea with expert flare and funk. Pickled fresh white anchovies—meaty and tangy as all get out—are paired with whipped butter punctuated with tuna and anchovy. The oily and oceanic ingredients, carefully propped and slathered atop crusty loaves of Bub and Grandma’s bread, get better and better with each bite. 5715 North Figueroa St., Los Angeles. —Cathy Chaplin
Beef and broccoli at Native in Santa Monica Mona Holmes Beef and broccoli at Native It’s a shame Nyesha Arrington’s Native permanently closed yesterday. Her Santa Monica restaurant was a gorgeous addition to the Westside, with plushy seating, cozy nooks, and a killer, youthful playlist. Arrington’s menu leaned heavily on fresh produce from the adjacent Santa Monica Farmers Market. While her confit fingerling potatoes with dry-aged beef fat were very good, they came in a close second to the beef and broccoli. With bone marrow as the centerpiece, the dish also featured blistered garlic with a Thai shallot-hoisin sauce for the broccolini. Even though it was Native’s final day of service, Arrington’s staff still kept things professional with fantastic service and execution. 620 Santa Monica Blvd. Santa Monica. —Mona Holmes
Slow-cooked short rib at Nightshade in Downtown Matthew Kang Roasted short rib at Nightshade Nightshade continues to grow its menu of Asian-inspired dishes with some shareable larger format fare like this blackened, slow-cooked short rib that very much resembles something one would find at a Texas barbecue joint. Served sliced and assembled atop the bone, think of this as a sort of mash between Chinese and Korean barbecue, with the pickles on the side. The rib meat boasts a slightly sweet, soy-like glaze that isn’t the least bit smoky, and Nightshade chef Mei Lin serves the hulking rib with butter lettuce to wrap like ssam .
Though the pickles do a sufficient job of cutting through the rich meat, which isn’t the least bit smoky, one wonders what a small bowl of fermented kimchi would do. Either way, the entry point of this sits around $75 depending on the weight, and shares nicely with a table of two to four. For a menu that tends to highlight vegetables, fish, or pasta, it’s great to have a substantial protein finish to a meal here. 923 E. 3rd St. #109, Los Angeles. —Matthew Kang
March 11, 2019 Sichuan pigs ears at Noodle Harmony in Monterey Park @GastronomyBlog Pigs ears at Noodle Harmony The namesake noodles at Noodle Harmony are certainly worth one’s while — the Chengdu-style dry noodles and dan dan mian are particularly good — but don’t overlook the small list of cold dishes also on offer. Eaten communally and heaped with things like jellyfish, cucumber, and bean curd, the cooling platters complement the tremendous strands. The “pork ear in chili oil dressing” makes for the best kind of starter, striking the ideal balance between flavor and heft, piquing appetites without diminishing them. The ears, snappy yet smooth, arrive perfumed with classic Sichuan ma and la with a hint of sweetness. 735 W Garvey Ave, Monterey Park. —Cathy Chaplin
Shrimp fries from Mariscos El Bigoton in East LA Farley Elliott Shrimp fries at Mariscos El Bigoton It’s hard to find a better bite or two in LA right now than the shrimp fries from the Mariscos El Bigoton truck in East LA. That’s not to say one should indulge in the entire $15 Styrofoam container as a standalone meal; it would be practically impossible and unadvisable health-wise. But for a few glorious forkfuls, the confluence of french fries and savory sauce and sauteed shrimp is mind-bendingly appropriate for a sunny weekend day. Pull up a stool, be sure to grab a complete bite (that includes avocado and cheese, naturally) and enjoy the glories of street food in Los Angeles. 5458 Whittier Blvd., Los Angeles. —Farley Elliott
Roman-style artichoke at Cal Mare in Beverly Hills Wonho Frank Lee Cal Mare It would be a sin to forgo the pizza and pasta at Cal Mare, which are masterfully handmade by chef Adam Sobel and define the coastal Italian menu. However, it would be a greater misdeed to overlook the restaurant’s specials, like the Roman-style artichoke. This traditional dish is an understated star, with artichoke, mortadella, and pistachio carefully drenched with a flavorful salsa verde and a touch of citrus. It’s a layered and hearty dish that takes you by surprise, and easily pairs with wine recommended by Sobel’s attentive staff. 8500 Beverly Blvd., Suite 115, Beverly Hills. —Mona Holmes
Dumpling and rice cake soup from Spoon by H in Los Angeles Matthew Kang Dumpling soup at Spoon by H Spoon by H is the totally unsung but now highly blown up Korean restaurant on Beverly nearby La Brea Avenue thanks to one David Chang, who blasted the place on his Instagram and podcast as his favorite restaurant of the past year. On weekends, the place is absolutely slammed, but on weekdays it’s a bit more mellow. The food is basically Korean comfort food, the kind a grandma or mom would make, but with a heavy dose of pizzazz. Is it life changing? It depends on your experience with Korean food, and how much you would worship something like an amazing dumpling and rice cake soup ( dukmandu guk ).
What’s different about Spoon by H’s version here starts with wonderfully crimped and assembled dumplings placed into a garlicky, almost milky broth covered with vegetables, chili flakes, and fried wonton strips that feels more substantial that a homemade version. There’s a sense that Spoon by H is messing around with the Korean food canon in a thoughtful, measured way that would still appeal to the neophyte. The hype machine is truly on for Spoon by H, but that doesn’t mean it isn’t warranted. 7158 Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles. —Matthew Kang
March 4, 2019 Smoky tacos al carbon from a stand in the Arts District Farley Elliott Tacos al carbon in the Arts District There’s always something new to discover around any corner in Los Angeles, especially for those willing to take side streets and spend a little time staring out the window. Case in point: The new tacos al carbon stand at the corner of Violet Street and Mateo in the Arts District. It’s little more than a pop-up tent, salsa bar, charcoal grill, and single table, but that’s all that one could ever need when dining out on quick-service cecina tacos imbued with lots of smoke. Lace over some avocado salsa and fiery roja for maximum effect, then drip with lime and hover over the plate. In Los Angeles, it can (and is) as simple as that. Tacos al Carbon at Violet and Mateo, Arts District. —Farley Elliott
Hakka mochi at Joy in Highland Park @GastronomyBlog Hakka mochi at Joy With noodles, rice bowls, and thousand-layer pancakes to be had, it’s no wonder that most folks stumble out of Joy properly stuffed and likely without dessert. But hold back a little on the savories because the hakka mochi is worthy of one’s precious gastro-real estate. Served alongside mugs of warm tea, the mound of mochi arrive dusted in peanut and black sesame powder. While the former tastes something like a sticky PayDay bar, the latter is just bitter enough to counter its neighbor’s nutty sweetness. Speared with a bamboo toothpick and eaten one-by-one, the flavors and textures delight until the sizable mound whittles into a mole hill and then disappears all together. 5100 York Blvd, Highland Park. —Cathy Chaplin
Gumbo ya-ya at Ralph Brennan’s Jazz Kitchen in Downtown Disney Mona Holmes Gumbo ya-ya at Ralph Brennan’s Jazz Kitchen After standing witness as friends were married in front of a Norwalk judge, the new husband and wife suggested we dine at the “Happiest Place On Earth” to celebrate. A quick drive brought us to Ralph Brennan’s Jazz Kitchen, the Bourbon Street-themed eatery in Downtown Disney. Champagne was required, as was sitting outdoors at a table with mardi gras beads. With its dark roux and slow heat that only revealed itself 30 seconds after each bite, the gumbo ya-ya chicken was a pleasant surprise and made me reconsider whether solid food choices were available at Disney. With options like this, it’s entirely possible to get a small taste of Disneyland without paying the park fees. 1590 South Disneyland Drive, Anaheim. —Mona Holmes
Salmon ochazuke at Orsa & Winston in Downtown Matthew Kang Salmon ochazuke at Orsa & Winston Josef Centeno’s refined restaurant Orsa & Winston is perhaps the most underrated place to eat Downtown. The unassuming, elegant interior doesn’t try to grab one’s attention. Brunch is the easiest entry point to the menu (though weekday lunch is also really accessible), with easy-to-like dishes like a fantastic castelfranco and kale salad, imbued with a tart Meyer lemon vinaigrette and smoky bacon. A fluffy Tehapachi grain pancake is only bested by the Instagram-friendly Japanese souffle pancake topped with hyper-local honey (like, from Downtown) and Harry’s Berries since they just came back in season. But the salmon ochazuke successfully melds a homey Japanese morning dish with some of Centeno’s creative flair. He takes slow cooked salmon that still features a sashimi-like tenderness, topping it with steamed seaweed, spicy Calabrian chile, and a green tea dashi . Growing up, my mother made me something similar for breakfast — pan-fried salmon with barley tea-soaked rice. Centeno’s version seriously took me back to the purest kind of comfort food. 122 West 4th St., Los Angeles. —Matthew Kang
February 25, 2019 Grilled salmon bowl at Urban Radish in the Arts District Farley Elliott Urban Radish The life of a food writer is a lot of things. It’s about sitting in front of a computer, or sitting in a car on the way to a conversation and then a computer, or eating a lot of food. It’s fun, rewarding, and often unglamorous, despite the Instagram shots. And it’s also the kind of thing that can compound over the years to become a real problem, physically and mentally. So, every once in a while, the cheesy breakfast burritos need to take a backseat to some wonderfully grilled salmon set on a bowl of greens from a place like Urban Radish, the healthy-eating oasis in the Arts District. The outdoor grill is hidden behind a row of water-circulating vertical planters brimming with kale and other greens. Look through the foliage to find one man and a stack of tickets. Skirt steak, salmon, chicken; it all hits the hot metal and gets served over healthy grains and greens to a slew of daytime diners who just don’t need another taco, sandwich, or bowl of udon. It’s not about being a perfectly healthy eater every day, it’s about making the right (and still delicious) choices sometimes, and learning to just live the rest of the time. 661 Imperial St., Arts District. —Farley Elliott
Ginger onigiri at Pikunico in Downtown @GastronomyBlog Ginger onigiri at Pikunico at ROW DTLA Here at chef Kuniko Yagi’s fried chicken spot, the signature clucks are served with house-made pickles, a trio of sauces, and a choice of fingerling fries or ginger onigiri . Don’t be tempted to pass over the seemingly straightforward seaweed-wrapped rice balls for the crispy spuds. While the potatoes are perfectly lovely, and the fried chicken too, it is the onigiri — glossy and glutinous — that deserves your attention. The gentle warmth of fresh ginger permeates each grain, while a sheet of nori holds everything together. Hand held and comforting, what more could one ask for in a side dish? 767 South Alameda St. Suite 122, Los Angeles. —Cathy Chaplin
Slack season noodles at Joy in Highland Park Joy on York [Official Photo] Slack season noodles at Joy in Highland Park LA’s surprise hail, snow, or graupel storm landed throughout the city last week, and with it came some very cool temperatures. Even though the mercury is slowly moving upwards, the lows will remain in the 40s for the time being. The right kind of food can assist with staying warm, like the slack season noodles with sesame scallion bread at Vivian Ku’s Joy in Highland Park. This traditional Taiwanese soup starts with a flavorful chicken and pork base, with minced pork, plenty of garlic, and hearty noodles with a slight bite added to it. Topped with a single shrimp and scallions, these noodles should be eaten quickly in Joy’s cozy dining room as if your warmth depends on it. 5100 York Blvd, Highland Park. —Mona Holmes
Squid ink bucatini at Nightshade in Downtown Matthew Kang Squid ink bucatini at Nightshade Mei Lin’s suave Arts District restaurant feels like a gem, tucked away from the street and shoeboxed into a big brick building. Inside, it glows with warmth from the kitchen and the dim lighting but feels modern with hanging indoor plants and royal green banquettes. The menu inches toward a more complete picture of Lin’s vision of craveworthy Asian-American dishes, and this latest addition of squid ink bucatini is no exception. Anyone who’s had zhajianmian , the Northern Chinese classic noodle dish with savory minced pork, will understand the context of this pasta. Instead of hand-pulled noodles, it’s tubular bucatini in an arresting black color, sauced with cuttlefish bolognese instead of pork, and simmering with the gentle heat of Korean gochujang. It’s truly a clever dish that might get overlooked by the mapo pork lasagna or shrimp toast. 923 E 3rd Street, Los Angeles. —Matthew Kang
February 17, 2019 Coconut waffle at Here’s Looking at You in Koreatown @GastronomyBlog Here’s Looking at You While most restaurants don’t put too much creativity into their brunch menus, relying on standbys like Bloody Mary’s and eggs Benedict to fuel weekend crowds, chef Jonathan Whitener is bringing fresh ideas and energy to the table. Take for instance his coconut waffle with koji , blueberries, ume (Japanese salty plums), and smoked maple syrup. At first glance, it looks like a fine enough Belgian waffle topped with whipped cream and a berry compote. But the first bite reveals that there is far more here than meets the eye. The coconut waffle, impossibly light and airy, delivers an avalanche of unexpected savory and funky notes, on top of the anticipated sweetness. This dish is far more interesting than it needs to be, going above and beyond the brunch-time status quo. Respect the waffle. 3901 West 6th Street, Los Angeles. —Cathy Chaplin
Brisket from Moo’s Craft Barbecue at Smorgasburg in Downtown Clay Larsen Moo’s Craft Barbecue In the ever-growing Los Angeles barbecue scene, the middle class is shrinking. Most places that have been around for years are, frankly, just okay, and others are downright bad. Of late, though, there has been a rush to the top from places like Ragtop Fern’s and Slab and Ugly Drum and Ray’s BBQ, with the family-run Moo’s Craft Barbecue reaching for the summit. It’s easy to see them planting their flag at the crest, thanks to insanely luscious brisket and pull-apart ribs, smoked to a Texas tenderness and offered with East L.A. sides and a smile. Check them out Sundays at Smorgasburg in Downtown; the line is worth it, if only for that barky brisket alone. 787 S. Alameda St., Downtown. —Farley Elliott
Smoked beef cheeks bowl at Guerrilla Tacos in Downtown Bradley Tuck Smoked beef cheeks bowl at Guerrilla Tacos The SoCal air is so chilly at the moment, so order Guerrilla Tacos’ piping hot bowl of smoked beef cheeks to stay warm. It’s a gorgeous broth with perfectly sized bits of meat that has been smoked for upwards of six hours using a blend of cherry, hickory, and oak woods. For the broth, chef Wes Avila brings together veal bones, dashi, ginger, scallions, and lemongrass. The tomato-based casero -style salsa packs some heat, so add your preferred amount of this salsa and meat to the thick, gordita -like flour tortillas. Pro-tip: save some tortillas for sopping up the broth. The bottom of the bowl comes with an added bonus: the incredible feeling of getting the chill out of your bones. 2000 E. 7th Street, Los Angeles. —Mona Holmes
Tacos from Tacos 1986 in Koreatown Matthew Kang Tacos 1986 Now that LA’s best new taco stand is situated in a highly visible location in Koreatown, it’s the best time to stop by during weekdays. Parking is a bit of a challenge, but circle around and street parking is usually never more than two blocks away. The tacos are getting more polished, better-seasoned, and better-constructed after the stand’s press-riddled first few weeks of operation. The carne asada picks up a little bit more smoky char while the adobada often gets more time on the flat top grill. The hand made tortillas are still excellent, as good as one would find in Baja. Ask nicely for the chicharron de queso con hongos , and a beautiful golden brown tortilla made of only cheese comes with the stand’s excellent mushrooms. The best part about Tacos 1986 is its accessibility, placed right in the heart of Koreatown, which itself is a crossroads for anyone traveling to Hollywood or Downtown, South LA, or Mid-City. What’s better than a taco pit stop? 611 S Western Ave, Los Angeles. —Matthew Kang
February 11, 2019 Chicken liver toast at Tartine Bianco in Downtown @GastronomyBlog Tartine Bianco Dining at a brand new restaurant certainly has its pitfalls, namely slower than optimal service, but it also has its immense thrills. When a late-night OpenTable search yielded prime seating at the less-than-two-week-old Tartine Bianco, it was impossible not to squeal just a bit and then take the plunge, even with all the potential pitfalls considered. While the menu is still a work-in-progress, the chicken liver toast is an early stand out and quite possibly the most thoughtful dish of the evening. The base of the matter, a crusty slice of the restaurant’s famous bread, sturdily held onto the pretty pink liver, as well as dollops of kumquat puree and blood orange segments. Balance comes among the varied components, hitting the brightest of notes with just enough richness to bring it home. 787 South Alameda St Unit 120, Los Angeles. —Cathy Chaplin
Roast duck with crispy rice at Majordomo in Chinatown Matthew Kang Majordomo Majordomo continues to churn out excellent large format dishes like this gorgeous roast duck served over crispy rice. Embedded underneath the rice are pieces of shredded duck, roasted turnips, and dates; a server pours duck-citrus broth over the whole thing tableside. The dish feels vaguely Korean, with its crispy rice, duck, and tender turnips that exude the fragrance of Korean daikon radish. The restaurant might eventually change the dish’s format in the future, with a cook slicing the duck breast in front of diners at their table. While this dish won’t replace the incredible smoked short ribs as the restaurant’s most impressive large format dish, it does provide a more approachable option for smaller groups. 1725 Naud St, Los Angeles, CA —Matthew Kang
Off-menu lasagna at Jame Enoteca in El Segundo Farley Elliott Jame Enoteca Jame Enoteca is well on its way to becoming a new kind of standard for the city of El Segundo. The corner strip mall option makes all of its pastas in-house and keeps a cozy but refined sort of vibe, which is exactly what’s needed in the squeezed-in neighborhood, bounded by LAX, the ocean, and a refinery to the south. Of particular noteworthiness (though all of the pastas seem to be pretty delicious) is the off-menu occasional lasagna with assorted foraged mushrooms. The skillet-style entree is big, rich, and crispy at the edges from a proper oven cook that doesn’t dry the whole thing out. Pair it up with some vegetables to start and maybe a glass of wine, and be well on the way to a very full and very relaxed time in the South Bay. 241 Main St., El Segundo. —Farley Elliott
New Zealand sea bream hand roll at KazuNori in Downtown KazuNori With open seating and rapid rounds of sushi hitting plates at the square communal seating area, KazuNori is the place to find some of the LA’s freshest fishes. It’s not uncommon to find a long line, which can be surprisingly short thanks to the restaurant’s efficiency. Choose from three to six hand rolls, which are made in plain view. And while many return for the blue crab hand rolls, the seasonal New Zealand sea bream hand roll shouldn’t be overlooked. The chefs transform the sea bream’s tender flesh and shiny silver skin into an elegant and perfect hand roll. Order a Sapporo and watch the chefs do their magic. 421 S. Main Street Los Angles. —Mona Holmes
February 5, 2019 Toothpick lamb at Chengdu Taste in Alhambra Farley Elliott Chengdu Taste It’s always nice to return to a standard-bearing restaurant and find it largely as it has always been: busy, happy, humming, and delicious. That was certainly the case with Chengdu Taste last week, when some Eater colleagues made the trip for all things spicy, tingly, and familiar. Despite the years of immense press and increased competition from other Sichuan restaurants in the San Gabriel Valley, Chengdu Taste’s details continue to impress. The toothpick lamb is just as meaty, spicy, and craveable as ever, especially when paired against plates piled high with steamed vegetables and fish and peppers. The wontons are always a hit too, but there’s just something so classically alluring about that toothpick lamb. It’s nice to see old friends again. 3233 W. Valley Blvd., Alhambra. —Farley Elliott
Nanban fried chicken at Chateau Hanare in West Hollywood Matt Kang Chateau Hanare Chateau Hanare is one of the most underrated openings of the past year. This elegant standalone in West Hollywood comes from NYC restaurateur Reika Alexander who also owns En Brasserie in West Village. Alexander’s cuisine is classically Japanese, both fitting of a kaiseki meal in its ambition and subtlety, and izakaya- like with its more approachable dishes. Consider the nanban fried chicken, karaage -style chicken pieces served with a mound of creamy Japanese tartar sauce, shaved green onions, and a pool of ginger, carrot, and garlic-soy marinade. With so many refined dishes to try here, from the fresh tofu to the raw octopus with seaweed, it’s nice to dive into a heaping plate of fried chicken to bring everything back to earth. 8097 Selma Ave, Los Angeles. —Matthew Kang
Carne asada-inspired beef carpaccio at Atrium in Los Feliz Mona Holmes Atrium in Los Feliz On Vermont just south of Franklin, there’s a strip of Los Feliz restaurants that don’t turnover very often. Until Atrium came along last fall, these spots tended to stick around for eons and kept the neighborhood in a bit of a holding pattern. It’s amazing what owners Beau Laughlin and Jay Milliken did to the space and what chef Hunter Pritchett created with the menu. Pritchett’s flavors are unique and strong, just the way Angelenos like it. The beef carpaccio, inspired by the chef’s love of carne asada, is topped with crispy potato matchsticks, a thick salsa macha, and avocado crema. Those crunchy, salty, and savory layers makes for fun eating, but one plate might not be enough. 1816A N. Vermont Ave Los Angeles. —Mona Holmes
Cajun seafood boil at Boiling Crab in Alhambra Yelp Boiling Crab Here at the Alhambra outpost of this local chainlet, patrons wait up to two hours during peak dining times to get their hands good and dirty from the restaurant’s famous spice-rubbed crayfish. Before the main event arrives in a plastic sack, tables are covered in butcher paper and bibs are tied around necks. In addition to classic crayfish are king crab legs, snow crab legs, blue crab, shrimp, clams, Dungeness crab, and lobster; everything is sold by the pound. Crustaceans come spiced in original “Rajun Cajun,” lemon pepper, garlic butter, or “The Whole Shebang,” a delectable combination of all three. For those unaccustomed to eating mudbugs, just rip off their heads, suck out the juices, break the tails lengthwise, and pull out the meat. 742 West Valley Blvd., Alhambra. —Cathy Chaplin
January 29, 2019 The Humm Dog at NoMad in Downtown Amelinda B Lee The Humm Dog at NoMad While fancy, chef-driven hamburgers are all the rage around town, fancy, chef-driven hot dogs are a rarity. Chef Daniel Humm knows a thing or two about dialing up the humble hotdog to an 11. First comes a bacon-wrapped, all-beef, deep-fried hotdog, followed by a tangy celery relish made with half-sour pickles, pickled mustard seeds, and a bit of black truffle. Next up is a layer of melted gruyere cheese, and finally, the plushiest of brioche buns schmeared with truffle mayonnaise. The juxtaposition of digging into a suped-up hotdog in the NoMad’s formal library setting feels wonderfully fitting somehow. 649 S Olive St, Los Angeles. —Cathy Chaplin
Yellowtail Jalapeno Katsu Sando from Umi by Hamasaku in El Segundo Matthew Kang Yellowtail Jalapeno Katsu Sando from Umi by Hamasaku The katsu sando trend continues to grow unabated in Los Angeles, and it’s a boon for casual diners looking for a filling dish that doesn’t take itself too seriously. So consider the lunchtime special at Umi by Hamasaku, the South Bay offshoot of the well-regarded West LA sushi restaurant, which serves a panko-fried yellowtail with jalapeno, yuzu mayo, cabbage, and yuzu vinaigrette on Hawaiian sweet bread. Think of it as an upgraded Filet-O-Fish with delicious flakey fish and plush bread. The shoestring fries served on the side could’ve been crispier, but the star of the plate, that katsu sando, is worth swooning over. 860 South Sepulveda Blvd. #116, El Segundo, CA 90245 —Matthew Kang
The Faberge Egg at Belvedere in Beverly Hills The Belvedere [Official Photo] Faberge Egg at the Belvedere in Beverly Hills At the Belvedere restaurant inside Beverly Hills’ Peninsula Hotel, pastry chef Lia Benedetto created the showstopper Faberge Egg. The chocolate egg sits upright with perfect ovular holes, edible paint, and gold foil. A firm whack of a spoon sends it all tumbling down to reveal the insides, which on this night was filled with orange liquor gelée, blood orange mousse, dulcey crunch, citrus supremes, blood orange coconut sorbet, and chantilly cream. The egg’s flavors rotate as the seasons do. 9882 South Santa Monica Blvd., Beverly Hills. —Mona Holmes
The pizza at Ronan on Melrose Marinara pizza with anchovies at Ronan With last week’s untimely closure of Sotto, Los Angeles has lost one of its most heralded Italian restaurants — to say nothing of a top-five pizza destination in the city. So what is one to do in the face of such a loss? Get as close to the original as possible with Ronan on Melrose. The restaurant, run by husband and wife team Daniel and Caitlin Cutler, is something of an unofficial spiritual successor to Sotto, as the Cutlers met and fell in love there before starting their own project last year. Daniel Cutler ran the pizza oven at Sotto for years, and is still turning out blistered pies with inventive toppings alongside a full bar. There are lemony meatballs, crudos, and other fun starters to round out any meal, but for those really craving cheese, dough, fire, and memory, it’s all about the pizza at Ronan. 7315 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles. —Farley Elliott
January 22, 2019 Pigeon Pie at Game of Thrones dinner at Lately Mona Holmes Pigeon Pie from a Game of Thrones-themed dinner Chef Becky Reams partnered with string quartet Salastina to throw a Game of Thrones dinner last Saturday at her daytime restaurant Lately. The candlelit dining room was filled with sharply dressed diners channeling the Mother of Dragons, Robert Baratheon, and Littlefinger. To signal the start of each course, Salastina played gorgeous arrangements from the show. For the first course, Reams created a pigeon pie inspired by King Joffrey and Margaery’s wedding. The pithivier was comprised of two disks of puff pastry filled with chicken, bacon, celery, onion, aromatics, and bechamel. While the pie was satisfyingly savory, the music made the room swoon. 970 N. Broadway, Los Angeles. —Mona Holmes
Tom Yum Onion at Nightshade in Downtown GastronomyBlog Tom Yum Onion at Nightshade Everyone’s buzzing about Mei Lin’s newly opened Nightshade and for good reason — the food is fantastic while the space feels just right for the neighborhood. The menu is chock full of unexpected Asian American mashups, from the mapo tofu lasagna to the shrimp toast and best of all, the tom yum onion. Outback Steakhouse’s iconic appetizer gets the Top Chef treatment—expertly fried, Thai-spiced, and served with an airy coconut dip. It’s hard not to feel just a little giddy unfurling the onion’s copious layers. It’s best to share this dish with a group of four, but don’t hold back, two-tops. It’s worth waddling out of the restaurant for. 923 E 3rd St #109, Los Angeles, CA. —Cathy Chaplin
Breakfast at Jon & Vinny’s in Brentwood Crystal Coser Jon & Vinny’s It’s hard to overestimate just how popular the new Jon & Vinny’s in Brentwood will be. Or, in fact, already is. Fans and locals have been breathing on the glass, desperate for a glimpse inside, for the better part of the past two months, and now the white oak interior is buffed and shining. The star staff is shining too, turning out all-day menu items immediately, from olive oil eggs to pizzas and pastas and really, really awesome wines. A surefire breakfast winner is the BLT, a $16 beast on Gjusta bread that comes with lots of bacon, gorgeous tomatoes, and a runny fried egg. It’s best split with a friend (and some pancakes on the side), but can also be eaten alone for maximum mid-week breakfast decadence in Brentwood, on Fairfax, or — soon — around the globe. 11938 San Vicente Blvd., Brentwood. —Farley Elliott
January 16, 2019 Lemon ice box pie at Dulan’s in Los Angeles Randoll C./Yelp Lemon icebox pie at Dulan’s in Hyde Park With rain pouring down all week long, friends participating in Whole 30 or “Drynuary,” and a new year in full swing, there’s only one thing to do immediately: eat comfort food. There’s plenty to choose from throughout the city, but this time Dulan’s will do. The choices are traditional and solid with mac and cheese, greens, fried chicken, and peach cobbler — but the lemon icebox pie is where it’s at. The combination of lemon juice, eggs, and condensed milk in a pie crust is reminiscent of key lime pie, but truly and uniquely a Southern masterpiece. Get a slice at all three locations for Dulan’s unless they sell out. 4859 Crenshaw Blvd, Los Angeles, CA. —Mona Holmes
Armenian comfort food at Mini Kabob in Glendale Farley Elliott Mini Kabob In a world of big, buzzy openings, heatmaps, and waiting lists, it’s a true comfort to slide into a seat at Mini Kabob in Glendale. The absolutely tiny storefront south of the Americana has become something of a cult favorite, and for good reason. Platters of freshly grilled kabobs, lamb chops, and veggies always make for a great group meal, but at Mini Kabob it’s basically an all-hands-on-deck kind of family affair. Meats are offered with roasted eggplant ikra , thick smears of whipped garlic, lots of hummus, and plenty of lavash bread for pulling, grabbing, dipping, and enjoying. Places like Mini Kabob are the true heart and soul of eating in Los Angeles, especially on rainy days when a warm meal and good friends are of paramount importance. 313 1/2 Vine St., Glendale, CA. —Farley Elliott
Bun bo Hue at Nha Trang Noodle House Restaurant in San Gabriel GastronomyBlog Bun bo Hue at Nha Trang Noodle House Restaurant There’s been more rain this week than any other in recent memory and that means plenty of noodle soup for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Pho and ramen are always solid standbys, but this week it’s been all about bun bo Hue , a spicy Vietnamese beef noodle soup with lemongrass. The stadium-sized bowls at Nha Trang are one of the best to be had this side of the Pacific. Mingling with the thin, slippery rice noodles are fist-sized pork trotters, cubes of congealed blood, and slices of pleasantly gristly beef. Comfort and warmth in a bowl. 311 E Valley Blvd., Ste. 103, San Gabriel, CA. —Cathy Chaplin
January 8, 2019 Smashed burger at Smosh Town in Pasadena Gastronomy Blog Smashed burger at Smosh Town in Pasadena One of the perks of this gig is being the first to know about new openings and happenings. Smosh Town set up shop over the holidays in the shadows of Gabriel’s Auto in Pasadena. While street-side tacos are a common sight around town, street-side burgers are quite the novelty. There are only two burgers on the menu: the Smosh Town Classic with raw onions, cheese, pickles, mustard, and ketchup, and The O’s Way with grilled onions and all the fixings. Both are priced at $7 and are made with Wagyu beef. Each burger comes with two smashed patties, crisp and caramelized around the edges, as well as two slices of all American Cheese. Burgers begin coming off the flattop at 7 p.m. and the entire operation closes once everything is sold out. Be prepared to wait up to 30 minutes for food to be ready depending on the size of the evening’s crowd. 250 N Hill Ave, Pasadena, CA. —Cathy Chaplin
Dungeness crab and garlic noodles at Crustacean in Beverly Hills Matt Kang Dungeness crab and garlic noodles at Crustacean in Beverly Hills Crustacean’s Dungeness crab, roasted, garlic-infused, and served out of the shell or cracked in shell, is truly a marvel for anyone who grew up eating this specialty at Cantonese restaurants. Crustacean’s version isn’t necessarily leaps and bounds better than what one would find in SGV or Orange County, but this version boasts quite a bit of finesse, from the pre-cracked shell (it’s always more fun to scoop the meat out of the shell, right?), to the excellent and endlessly-imitated garlic noodles on the side (which costs $15 extra). Crustacean is certainly pricey, with the Dungeness crab running $78 an order, though it’s generous enough for three adults or a nuclear family of four. With an updated, if slightly tacky, dining room, Crustacean still carries its mid-1990s character well, and it’s always a bonus to see the regal Helene An working the room on choice nights. 468 N Bedford Dr, Beverly Hills, CA. —Matthew Kang
Mario-style Fries at Howlin’ Ray’s in Chinatown Jakob Layman Mario-style Fries at Howlin’ Rays in Chinatown Having family in town is always a great excuse to retread old favorites, even if they haven’t fallen anywhere close to out of favor. That’s certainly the case with Howlin’ Ray’s, the unstoppable Nashville hot chicken paradise in Chinatown. The line, the Howlin’-level wings, the service…it’s all a rite of passage for folks coming through the city, especially when it’s a wide-eyed little brother from the wilds of upstate New York. And despite the allure of the simple fried chicken sandwich, the impressive move for newcomers will always be going off-menu, playing the part of insider and scoring a box of medium-heat Mario-style fries. Soaked in slaw, cheese, Comeback sauce, pickles, and cut-up chicken, the fries are a welcome mat to the city of Los Angeles, offered one bite at a time. 727 N. Broadway, Chinatown, CA. —Farley Elliott
December 20 Hot chicken tender sliders at Dave’s Hot Chicken in East Hollywood Farley Elliot Hot chicken tender sliders at Dave’s Hot Chicken in East Hollywood Sometimes, a line just feels like a line. It’s easy to walk past people queuing up for boba tea or avocado toast and, with a roll of the eyes and a light snicker, to dismiss the work being done inside. With Dave’s Hot Chicken on Western, the line can seem — from the outside at least — like a branding win, or a bit of Instagram magic. But inside the energy is palpable, a room filled with real people actually enjoying themselves outside of the saturation of social media. There are plenty of photos being taken of those hot chicken tender sliders, naturally, but the most important thing is that the food actually works for the intended audience. The well-spiced fries, the cheese-laced chicken, and the varying levels of heat all work here, to delicious effect. Add in some beer and a crowd that’s happy to be in the room, and this world starts to make a little more sense. At first glance a place like Dave’s may not feel like it’s for everyone, but stop and look a little closer next time. 970 Western Ave., Los Angeles, CA. —Farley Elliott
Dry-aged wagyu (and more) at Tamaen in Lomita Matthew Kang Dry-aged wagyu at Tamaen in Lomita Is there a better birthday meal than grilled beef? And does grilled beef get any better than dry-aged wagyu? Tamaen, a standard-issue Japanese barbecue joint all the way down in Lomita, is one of the few places to find the rare beef, though it’s served in a ridiculously small portion in a ridiculously grandiose tableside presentation. Is it worth the $150 for a total of seven ounces of meat? Probably not. A trip to In-N-Out might be a necessary post-meal “snack.” But in terms of pure beefy deliciousness, it’s hard to argue with Tamaen’s quality, which is virtually perfect.
One can see the influence of yakiniku in places like New York City’s Michelin-starred Cote, and a number of other high-end Korean barbecues sprouting up around LA’s Koreatown: that the more expensive wagyu and American dry-aged stuff is becoming more desirable. Here’s a recommendation: come to Tamaen, order a more reasonably priced meat set, and splurge for one serving of the dry-aged wagyu. Grill it gently on the tabletop fire to give it a tinge of smoky flavor and browning then dip into the sweet soy sauce. The bite bursts with glorious rice beef fat and finishes with the nutty, profound flavors of dry-aged goodness. It’s a beautiful time to be alive. Tamaen, 1935 Pacific Coast Hwy, Lomita, CA. —Matthew Kang
Cha gio at Golden Deli in San Gabriel Boss and Boss E./Yelp Cha Gio at Golden Deli My husband and I managed to finally throw our four-year-old a proper birthday party this past weekend. It took place four weeks late, but it’s the thought that counts, right? Cooking for a crowd is something best left up to professionals, so to supplement the birthday cake that came out of our home kitchen, I turned to Golden Deli to handle the hard stuff. I wasn’t sure how well their wares would travel, but everything turned out stupendously, particularly the cha gio, which were blistered on the outside and somehow even more delicious dipped in fish sauce. So while the children bounced ‘till their heart’s content, the parental set piled plates high with cold vermicelli noodles, grilled shrimp paste, and the best cha gio in LA. Golden Deli, 815 W Las Tunas Dr., San Gabriel, CA. —Cathy Chaplin
The lamb burger at Belcampo Meat Co. in Grand Central Market Mona Holmes The lamb burger at Belcampo Meat Co. in Grand Central Market Grand Central Market’s magic is all about the selection. A group visit ensures that everyone will get what they want, since no one is required to eat the same thing. Vegetarians can head straight to Ramen Hood, while meat eaters wait in line for carnitas from Tacos Tumbras a Tomas or at Belcampo Meat Co. They have a six seat counter, but that’s no problem. Send your crew to grab their favorites, order the lamb burger and a beer, and grab a table in the main hall near G & B Coffee. Belcampo’s lamb burger is an imperfect, messy patty smeared with black garlic aioli and onion sprouts. And let’s be real, organic and grass-fed is the way to go for juicy, medium-rare meat, as the source comes straight from their farm in Mt. Shasta. Grand Central Market 317 S. Broadway, Los Angeles, CA. —Mona Holmes
December 12 Kanpachi ceviche at NoMad in Downtown Mona Holmes Kanpachi at NoMad LA When walking around Olive and 7th, make a detour through the NoMad. Better yet, if you have an extra hour or two, take a seat in the lobby dining room and order lunch. NoMad is gorgeous from the morning hours until nighttime, but taking in all those details with sunlight is worth a visit. Settle into one of the plush red and blue sofas and observe the exalted ceilings, art, and built-in bookcases. It’s not necessary to dress up, but many do while ordering rounds of drinks, NoMad’s custom French 75, bottles of wine, or the kanpachi ceviche. It’s served in a round bowl with a slow burn, but the freshness is what you’ll notice most about this dish. Scoop up a bite with a spoon, butter lettuce, or thinly-sliced watermelon radish, while finding something new to behold in Downtown LA. 649 S. Olive St. Los Angeles, CA. — Mona Holmes
Perrón taco at Tacos 1986 in Hollywood Matthew Kang Perron taco at Tacos 1986 in Hollywood LA is already the best taco scene in America, but it’s still miles behind a city like Tijuana, which is one of the best tacos cities even in Mexico. Tacos 1986 serves an excellent rendition of TJ-style tacos in the heart of Hollywood, which is a massive boon for taco fans who live far away from the amazing South LA tacos of Tire Shop Taqueria. With handmade tortillas and actual grilled carne asada, the perrón is a direct version of the famous bean and cheese-filled taco of Rosarito’s El Yaqui.
Tacos 1986’s version is a bit smaller and more manageable versus Rosarito’s massive flour tortilla taco, though 1986’s version sports a similar thin tortilla to match the original. Loaded with diced carne asada and a dollop of guacamole, it’s reminiscent of what Loqui used to serve in Culver City before it had to shut down its grilling operation due to neighbor complaints. Tacos 1986 is already drawing massive crowds for its social media-first approach to marketing, but the word of mouth is spreading quickly too. Get there early to beat those lines. 1200 N Highland Ave, Los Angeles, CA. —Matthew Kang
Duck ham on rye at Rustic Canyon in Santa Monica Cathy Chaplin Duck ham at Rustic Canyon Santa Monica Truth be told, I haven’t dined at Rustic Canyon since the days when Evan Funke was serving up drippy burgers on Monday nights circa 2011. However, I recently picked up a copy of current chef Jeremy Fox’s On Vegetables, and after zipping through the forward and skimming some of the recipes, I immediately made dinner reservations for two. I wanted to taste the cooking of a chef who had finally found peace and balance in a professional kitchen. The duck ham on rye with preserved kumquat and salted spruce, essentially an open-faced sandwich, was as thoughtful as it was delicious. The citrusy puddles delighted with each bite. 1119 Wilshire Blvd, Santa Monica, CA. —Cathy Chaplin
Tacos at an unnamed stand in Highland Park Farley Elliott Tacos at unnamed taco stand in Highland Park With the holiday season comes a sprouting of Christmas tree sale sites, billowing bushels of suddenly green space occupying former parking lots and open bits of leftover land. There’s a particularly large site situated at Figueroa and York in Highland Park, alongside some midway-style games and other fun kicks for families to enjoy. And, almost just across the street, is Highland Park’s newest street taco setup. The unbranded stand carries all the significant signifiers: Bright string lights, a spinning trompo turning al pastor meat, and a separate table just for salsas and sides.
The bonus here is the drum-style open grill, where wide patches of carne asada cook fast over charcoal. The resulting setup is perhaps just as alluring (or more so) than the red and green streamers and holiday music from around the corner, at least to weary Angelenos returning home from a long trip abroad. Like any of the thousands of other largely unheralded street stands that operate nightly across Los Angeles County, this place does the classics well, and serves its community precisely where and when it’s needed most. Add in the adjoining churro guy who works Friday through Sunday nights, and the whole station becomes just another part of the fantastic fabric of Los Angeles, holidays or not. 6326 N. Figueroa, Highland Park, CA. — Farley Elliot
Not-So Random Film of the Week: Way of the Dragon/Return of the Dragon
Not-So Random Film of the Week: Way of the Dragon/Return of the Dragon Posted on by geelw
Hey, look! it’s that time of the month again – you know, when us guys get together and do the usual, but in public and with way too many people watching (well, hopefully). Yes, it’s time for an all-new (but not very much improved) installment of…
(theme song plays): If you did NOT hear a theme song, let me know. I paid some guy on eBay a petty penny for a theme song. Hmmm… I think I need to stay off eBay for a while…
This month’s other entries can be found at Mike’s Take on the Movies , The Cinema Monolith , and Wolfman’s Cult Film Club , so go get reading (you’ll need your own popcorn and beverage of choice, though). A bit of misleading marketing copy here thanks to this getting a US release after Lee’s unfortunate demise and Enter The Dragon popping up in theaters first in the States.
If my fading memory is correct, the first martial arts flick I’d ever seen was Way of the Dragon (or Return of the Dragon ) sometime in the mid 70’s on a black and white TV, either on WOR or WPIX, I believe. It was pretty horribly dubbed from what I recall, but then again, so were way too many foreign films of all genres from what I can remember. That version was what I saw as “definitive” in my youth until I finally heard from a few friends in the late 80’s that I’d probably want to see it in its original language. That took a while, as I finally got around to seeing a cut of the Cantonese/Mandarin version with English subtitles about 10 years back and it made for a much better experience.
As a kid, I didn’t pay close attention to dubbing other than cracking up at the way the mouths moved while wondering how those actors onscreen often said the dopiest things. As I grew older and gained more knowledge about films and the dub/sub process, I saw that more often than not, bad dubbing was the result of rewriting dialog and trying to fit those words into the mouths of whichever actor was speaking lines. Granted, Bruce Lee’s first complete work as a writer/director/producer isn’t exactly going for the gold on the scripting front, but it works far better when you see how Lee uses the language barrier as a major part of the film’s plot.
(Thanks, fortunestarmedia !) Alternate titles included: Bruce Lee in: Don’t Get In The Way of the Dragon Or Else You’ll Be Hit Repeatedly In and Around The Face and Body , but that one was rejected because it spoiled the plot too much.
Lee plays Tang Lung, sent to Rome by his uncle in Hong Kong to aid Chen Ching-hua (Nora Miao) and her uncle, Wang (Chung-Hsin Huang), who run a Chinese restaurant there that’s been under threat by a crime boss (Jon T. Benn) and his not so merry band of thugs. Miss Chen meets Tang at the airport and initially thinks he’ll be of little help thanks to him not making the greatest of impressions and despite him noting with pride that he trains in martial arts daily. Of course, things change when after initially avoiding a fight thanks to a bathroom break, Tang Lung gets to play Whack-a-Mole with a few of the thugs which gains him not only the respect of the restaurant’s staff (who all want to train under him), but the moon eyes from Chen, who cozies up to him as best she can.
Or tries to cozy up to him, actually. Unfortunately, he’s 100% oblivious to her charms (Wait, what?) “I don’t know ka-ra-te, but I know ka-ra-zy!” : Tang Lung, you dope… you’re passing this lady up? Chen Ching-hua (Nora Miao) goes from not a kung fu fan to asking him “Are you married?” in record time.
As a writer/director, Lee took a chance on starting off the film with a comedic tone that gradually vanishes completely as the story progresses. That English deficit Ling has gets him into an amusing situation at the beginning when at the airport’s restaurant, the elderly waitress brings him five bowls of assorted Campbell’s soups (nitpick: he only points four times at the menu) and he has to eat them all in a single sitting. This leads to a few chuckle-worthy bathroom break request bits that linger until just shortly before the first fight sequence where we finally get to see Lee doing some of his stuff. The buildup before that first battle is a neat game of “almost!” with Lee playing with the audience up to the right time when he has to deal with trouble by using his Fists of Fury (but not on The Big Boss , though, ha and ha ).
While that first fight scene is tremendous stuff, it’s only a warmup. When the Bruce is truly let loose, we get a pretty outstanding burst of choreographed brilliance in this classic sequence below. Note the sudden appearance of not one, but TWO pair of nunchaku * that make the scene both thrilling and hilarious. No nitpick here, as it’s just completely fantastic work (and yep, credit also goes to the poor stuntmen who sell those blows they take along with the painful-looking falls). Even more amusing are the slight resemblances to other actors some of the dudes have. You could almost half-swear Lee is taking out the house band of a TV talk show, some dude who looks a little like Dean Stockwell, and a David Duchovny lookalike before he gets back to Wolfman Jack above.
(Thanks, Tole Knez !)
Nope he’s not in this film, but just imagine if it were him? He’d do his own Foley work, that’s for damn sure.
So yeah, the first time I saw that scene as a kid, I laughed out loud for a few too many minutes (and recall missing a few lines of dialog during the post-fight scenes) because it looked as if poor Wolfman Jack was getting that royal ass kicking as leader of those thugs. Hell, even when discussing the movie later on with friends at school, a few of them got a huge laugh out of the resemblance that actor had to the still popular at that time radio DJ.
Also, either the restaurant makes their own dumplings, or that alley REALLY needed to be swept clean as all that flour or whatever on the ground was a kind of a poor cushion for those stunt guys to flip and flop around on. Yeah, yeah – it’s an ancient Chinese secret (well, ancient movie secret) that some sort of “dust” on the ground makes for a great way to show impacts and “sell” them accordingly to the masses. I’d say everyone who saw this from back in the day until now was sold for sure.
While the melding of martial arts and humor worked well here, the cameo by “Italian Beauty” Malisa Longo comes off (to me) as a total dud despite the model/actress’ knockout looks. As they sit in a public space, Chen berates Tang Lung about being too wary of a handsy bank manager being a bit too friendly when meeting him, Longo strolls up, sits near the couple and exchanges smiles and glances with Lung. So far, so good… until the two stroll off together, which has Chen storm off in a huff. The next thing we see is Lung and Longo in what seems to be her place and when she vanishes for a about a minute, Lung goes and starts practicing his kung fu moves in a wardrobe mirror only to have a topless Longo appear from behind him… which sends Lung straight into that wardrobe to hide. End Scene. The cast of kinda-sorta celebrity and/or adult film star lookalikes getting whittled down, with style. Perhaps Tang Lung anticipated the cargo pants craze, as how else does one hide two pair of nunchucks?
In the TV edit, I believe that scene in the hotel room was completely snipped, so all I recall was Lung meeting and walking off with her, followed by the scene where he later arrives back at Miss Chen’s apartment and is greeted by Ah Quen (Ti Chin), the jovial, chubby dude who’s not much into practicing martial arts like the rest of the restaurant’s waiters are. Don’t get me wrong, though. I don’t mind nudity at all in my films – what’s here seems to be just tossed in just to get a rating or make someone a little famous for one throwaway scene. Eh, whatever – it’s there and you’ll likely forget about it as the humor bleeds right out of the film by the third act.
Which is a good thing, mind you. That crime boss sends an overdressed sniper after Tang Lung, he misses, but Miss Chen is kidnapped and we see Lung’s lack of English fail him again, this time sans any humorous asides. After another confrontation, that boss’ somewhat, er… quirky assistant, Ho (Ping Ou Wei) decides the best defense is a better offense. So, some phone calls are made and three men arrive in Rome to take care of that Tang Lung problem for good. Those men are Robert Wall (Fred), Hwang In-shik (who’s nameless), and Chuck Norris ( as Colt, in his first movie role). Only one of them is Chuck Norris, so you kind of know who Tang Lung gets as his final opponent. Colt (Chuck Norris) has the upper hand for the moment, but you don’t beat the director at his own, er, Game of Death (that’s just not right, but it kind of works).
It’s here where Lee shows off his skills at putting together a pretty spectacular fight scene where it’s just two men, the “ring” they’re in and whatever happens happening. The genius of this sequence is you may find yourself rooting for both men to walk away from the path they’ve chosen, but the outcome is pretty much set in stone. The really interesting thing is what happens both before and after the battle where certain scores are settled and things end on a somewhat downbeat note for the remaining principals. It almost feels as if Lee wanted this film to be continued at some point in the future, but that’s more speculation on my part rather than any intent, as there is a definite feeling of closure to at least Tang Lung’s dealings in Rome.
As I saw this film first, followed by the TV cuts of The Big Boss and later Enter The Dragon a number of years later in a theater when the film was back in theaters for a limited run, I’ve always liked it the most despite ETD being more polished look and TBB’s kind of Warner Bros. cartoon approach to the violent battles in that flick.One has to wonder where Le’s career would have gone had he still been around past 1973 and if he were still alive and kicking today, what sort of influence he would have had on whatever he would be working on. Eh, but that’s wistful and wishful thinking territory we’ll avoid for the time being. That’s Ping Qu Wei as the shifty, slick-dressing Ho – it’s okay to not like his character at all because he’s not a good person in this flick.
*S y, did anyone else have like two or three relatives of even more friends who actually owned a set of nunchucks? For some reason, I recall seeing more of those weapons here in NYC (where they were illegal for decades) in the closets or dresser drawers of a few too many people who managed to buy them from ads placed in martial arts mags or even comics of that era. No one I knew had a clue as to how to use them, from what I remember. I’d guess that first time you conk yourself in the noggin or accidentally break a window while being a big swingin’ dip makes that the last time you’ll try to be a kung fu master, huh? Advertisements
Percy bysshe shelley Research Paper Example | Topics and Well Written Essays – 1000 words
Saturday, April 20, 2019 Percy bysshe shelley Research Paper Example | Topics and Well Written Essays – 1000 words Percy bysshe shelley – Research Paper ExampleThe give-and-take becomes easy if a look at his poetic ideas is done first. Shelley is of the opinion that a poet is a righteous teacher. He does not agree that a poet is merely an imitator. At the same time, he asserts that a poet is a creator, who not only creates but also provides ideas to the night club, guides the people, and in a way teaches what should be done to repair ones life. He rejects Thomas Love peacocks remark that a poet is a semi-barbarian. He not only counters this negative remark ab forbidden the poet but also declares that Poets are the unappreciated legislators of the world (Defense). In his essay defending meter, he explains the true role of a poet in his society and states thatPoetry turns all things to loveliness it exalts the beauty of that which is most beautiful, and it adds beauty to that which is most deformed it marries exultation and horror, grief and pleasure, eternity and change it subdues to union under its light yoke all irreconcilable things (Defense). Unlike Keats for whom poetry means beauty, Shelley finds poetry as a form of intellectual beauty. He treats politics, love, and nature on pit scale. He looks sometime melancholic, but his melancholy is closely related to his ideas. Ode to westmost slue can be taken as an ideal poem to study Shelley as a poet and revolutionary. As a poem, it is really remarkable because in it the poet treats everything in nature as an instrument of melody. The poet becomes totally spellbound by the actor of the swerve, the cloud, the sun, the ocean, and all these in nature for him become the right subject for poetry. He is so much exalt that he prays, Be thou, Spirit fierce, / My spirit Be thou me, impetuous one (Ode). The poem deals with the regenerative spot of nature. It praises how everything that is old and dead in nature is driven out to leave space for the birth of newfound and beautiful. In other words, it speaks about the li kely situation in which the world has to exist with everything unwanted and decayed, if innovation does not take place. The poet feels that this unfortunate situation is avoided in nature because of the support of the sweeping powers of west wind Thou, from whose unseen presence the leaves dead/ Are driven, like ghosts from an enchanter fleeing (Ode). It is with similar spirit that the poet wants changes in the political situation in his society. However, he does not possess the sweeping powers seen in the west wind to drive out the old and conventional ideas in his society to pave the way for the new and creative ideas. That is how the poem becomes noteworthy as an example of the poets political perspective. As Sydney Waterloo says, He was a dreamer, but he never dreamed merely for the sake of dreaming he always rushed to translate his dreams into acts (Sydney). Ode to the West Wind shows how Shelley tries to translate his poetical and political dreams into reality. The poem, Ode to the West Wind, is in the form of a prayer. It is addressed to West Wind, and not to any particular God, as Shelley finds in the invisible power in nature what worldly concern generally finds in God. The political idea with which he was obsessed is identified with the power of the wind. Though he tried to impress his philosophical ideas upon the people through many pamphlets he found very poor response coming from the people. So he was disappointed. Posted by
The beauty of the converted family
Saturday, April 20, 2019 The beauty of the converted family “The word of the LORD came also unto me, saying, Thou shalt not take thee a wife, neither shalt thou have sons or daughters in this place.” (Jer. 16:1,2). There were no more holy women in Israel to be faithful helpmeets and holy mothers. “For thus saith the LORD concerning the sons and concerning the daughters that are born in this place, and concerning their mothers that bare them, and concerning their fathers that begat them in this land; They shall die of grievous deaths; they shall not be lamented; neither shall they be buried; but they shall be as dung upon the face of the earth: and they shall be consumed by the sword, and by famine; and their carcases shall be meat for the fowls of heaven, and for the beasts of the earth. For thus saith the LORD, Enter not into the house of mourning, neither go to lament nor bemoan them: for I have taken away My peace from this people, saith the LORD, even lovingkindness and mercies.” (Jer. 16:3-5). “Notwithstanding she shall be saved in childbearing [childrearing], if they continue in faith and charity and holiness with sobriety.” (1Tim. 2:15). “But I suffer not a woman to teach, nor to usurp authority over the man, but to be in silence. For Adam was first formed, then Eve. And Adam was not deceived, but the woman being deceived was in the transgression.” (1Tim. 2:12-14). Usurping authority over the man is exactly what Satan loves to do. Destroying the creation that most fully represents God is Satan’s plan, “forasmuch as he is the image and glory of God: but the woman is the glory of the man.” (1Cor. 11:7). Man came from the earth; woman came from man. The intelligence gene may equally be distributed between both genders, but the emotion hormones are not. Women have a wider range of emotional expression than men. Therefore they have less self-control. Their minds are by nature under the control of their bodies more so than men because estrogen is greater in women than in men and testosterone is greater in men than in women. That inescapable, unalterable physical reality leaves men in authority over women. “If a man vow a vow unto the LORD, or swear an oath to bind his soul with a bond; he shall not break his word, he shall do according to all that proceedeth out of his mouth. If a woman also vow a vow unto the LORD, and bind herself by a bond, being in her father’s house in her youth; And her father hear her vow, and her bond wherewith she hath bound her soul, and her father shall hold his peace at her: then all her vows shall stand, and every bond wherewith she hath bound her soul shall stand. But if her father disallow her in the day that he heareth; not any of her vows, or of her bonds wherewith she hath bound her soul, shall stand: and the LORD shall forgive her, because her father disallowed her. And if she had at all an husband, when she vowed, or uttered ought out of her lips, wherewith she bound her soul; And her husband heard it, and held his peace at her in the day that he heard it: then her vows shall stand, and her bonds wherewith she bound her soul shall stand. But if her husband disallowed her on the day that he heard it; then he shall make her vow which she vowed, and that which she uttered with her lips, wherewith she bound her soul, of none effect: and the LORD shall forgive her. But every vow of a widow, and of her that is divorced, wherewith they have bound their souls, shall stand against her. And if she vowed in her husband’s house, or bound her soul by a bond with an oath; And her husband heard it, and held his peace at her, and disallowed her not: then all her vows shall stand, and every bond wherewith she bound her soul shall stand. But if her husband hath utterly made them void on the day he heard them; then whatsoever proceeded out of her lips concerning her vows, or concerning the bond of her soul, shall not stand: her husband hath made them void; and the LORD shall forgive her. Every vow, and every binding oath to afflict the soul, her husband may establish it, or her husband may make it void. But if her husband altogether hold his peace at her from day to day; then he establisheth all her vows, or all her bonds, which are upon her: he confirmeth them, because he held his peace at her in the day that he heard them. But if he shall any ways make them void after that he hath heard them; then he shall bear her iniquity. These are the statutes, which the LORD commanded Moses, between a man and his wife, between the father and his daughter, being yet in her youth in her father’s house.” (Num. 30:2-16). But the woman, with all of her unasked for and inescapable physical-mental makeup, is a precious creation. So what if she cannot be the final say in decisions, her gentle and diffident voice of counsel is the balance for her man’s decisions for the good outcome of every determination. Powerful influencers in husband’s mind, which she brings to the table with other perspectives and a second opinion and thus increased wisdom, are her looking up to him and submitting to him. “Wherefore, O king, let my counsel be acceptable unto thee, and break off thy sins by righteousness, and thine iniquities by shewing mercy to the poor; if it may be a lengthening of thy tranquillity.” (Dan. 4:27). Every tail needs a kite in order to get off the ground. But, every kite needs a tail; or it will crash and burn. Likewise, every man needs a converted wife to quicken him in his weighty duties. And every woman needs a converted husband to strengthen and stabilize her in childrearing. She deals primarily with the important issues inside the home; he deals primarily with the greater issues outside the home. Man was made to support and defend the family and nation. Woman was made to use his support for the raising up of the future generation. “[Their] delight is in the law of the LORD; and in His law [do they] meditate day and night. And [they] shall be like a tree planted by the rivers of water, that bringeth forth [their] fruit in [their] season; [their] leaf also shall not wither; and whatsoever [they do] shall prosper.” (Ps. 1:2,3). Thus, “man” is in the whole image of the Godhead. “In the day that God created man, in the likeness of God made He him; male and female created He them; and blessed them, and called their name Adam, in the day when they were created.” (Gen. 5:1,2). All that girls and women live for is the day they can have infants and children and husband to surround them with acceptance and joy. They dream of mutual love, which alone makes life worth living. Yet, this wonderful arrangement can fail and too often does fail to bring success. “Can a woman forget her sucking child, that she should not have compassion on the son of her womb? yea, they may forget.” (Isa. 49:15). And men can lose love for their wife and close their ears to her counsel, which would offer so much prosperity. “Yet ye say, Wherefore? Because the LORD hath been witness between thee and the wife of thy youth, against whom thou hast dealt treacherously: yet is she thy companion, and the wife of thy covenant.” (Mal. 2:14). Why does this happen? Why does the beautiful thing God created in Eden too often fail to bring the powerful joy that could lighten the earth with the glory of God? I believe the marital troubles start with the lack of love for the Bible. There exists no other resource to uplift the conscience in every aspect of the human being. But, in order to receive a love of the Bible, with Satan’s influence surrounding this planet so pervasively, God’s appointed Saviour for fallen man must convert the conscience to trust the Bible as the word of God. Once receiving a new trust in the Bible, then the Spirit of God, the mind of God, the voice intoning His will and character, begins to persuade the conscience that the Bible’s guidelines are best. With the converted person—husband or wife (unless one hates God and His word)—who trusts in the Saviour as a friend puts forth the will and effort to keep the first precept of the Bible’s guidelines, then the automatic good result is realized. When both husband and wife are converted and both are realizing good effects from obedience to their Saviour’s guidelines, they both grow in grace and in a knowledge of the Saviour’s character. They both continue to naturally develop into the image of God and the design that they were made to satisfy, and God glorifies their Designer, the Lord God. Both husband and wife take their place in the beautiful arrangement that Jesus gave their first parents in Eden. The wife allows the word of the husband to stand in every decision for the family unit, and the wife’s godly wisdom is heeded by her husband. Both respect the other. Both love the other. The love is mutual between them, and their children with them who have grown up in only the knowledge of good. Father and mother and children are one in everything. They happily go everywhere together and do everything together. They live life joyfully. They imitate the greater Father and His submissive Son, and Their creation. The human reflects the divine in the fulfillment of the Godhead’s plan for the earthly family’s creation, “which things the angels desire to look into.” (1Pet. 1:12). The human race becomes the text book for infinite illustrations of object lessons to the angelic hosts and unfallen worlds.
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